History :

From its privileged site, and its natural richnesses (sun, fertility of grounds and ressources of the sea), the area was according to any probability, since highest Antiquity, a habitat sought by the Man.

Islands of Lerins 

Visit Vallauris-Gulf-juan, and plunge in Space and Time. 

Space : 

While walking on hills of mimosas which encircle Vallauris, everyone can admire the panorama which extends from Nice, Antibes and its Cape, Cannes and The islands of Lerins, Esterel, up to Grasse more in North and Prealpes, still snow-covered on bottom of sky-blue... 

Time:

  For the warned walker, stones and ruins will reveal the secrets and the evolution of the first inhabitants of this area. 

The vestiges of a Roman way, which connected Antipolis (Antibes) to Cordula (Vallauris), remain in Impiniers. 

On the hill of Encourdoules (heights of Vallauris), one finds impressive a oppidum dating from the Ligure time. The cut stone walls, built without cement, are several meters thickness. Their height, certainly cannot be known but by places it still exceeds  two meters. 

This considerable building lets suppose that it protected a significant number of inhabitants, at one time when insecurity was important. Many vestiges were found in the ground, such as, coins, remains of tiles and potteries, thus revealing invaluable information on manners of the time. 

The first visible traces left by the Man in this commun go back to only a few centuries before Jesus-Christ, and were those of the Ligurians. 

One designates under the name of Ligurians the inhabitants of Provence at the iron age ; more than one race, they undoubtedly constituted the first occitan  community known, made extremely various tribes occupying a vast active territory from Languedoc to current Italy, in the neighbourhoods of Xth century before J.-C.

 Undoubtedly, these tribes had to defend their harvests and their herds against  hackers infesting the Mediterranean sea as well as terrestrial barbarians. 

But it is right to say that Ligurians were themselves, very often, extremely frightening. 

 Oxybiens and Deceates were true plunderers, on ground as on sea. 

The oppidum (fortified camp) of the hill of Encourdoules, which sheltered Deceates, occupied a position of choice. Indeed, at the same time defensive and strategic, this dominant position made it possible to observe and supervise the obliged passages  (terrestrial or maritime) of travellers, tradesmen or soldiers, the sight extending from Nice up to Esterel. They also could take care on their port located at Gulf-Juan. 

With Oxybiens, their neighbors occupying Aegitna (Cannes or Biot ?), they formed towards 160 before J.-C. a kind of confederation. 

Linked by multiple links, in particular in the plundering of the Coast and the sea, they caused many worries to their Greek neighbors occupying the colonies of Nicea and Antipolis. So that in 154 before J.-C., the Greeks of Antipolis asked the Roman Senate to put an end to  Ligures' exactions. The consul Quintus Opimius, and his army, will inaugurate what will become later, the Conquest of Gaules.

 Hunters and fishermen, the Ligurians also cultivated olive-tree, wine and cereales. 

Biot

 Romans will colonize and modernize the area, in particular, creating on the antique traced going along sea-side a new way, the way Via Aurélia. Besides, this one was borrowed by Jules Cesar in year 50 before Jesus Christ, when he went in Cisterrieur Gaule.

 After 44 and Cesar's death, his murder Decimus Brutus controls the area which already bears the name of the "Alpes-maritimes", and whose Antoine, income from Macedoine, wants to seize.

In the Ist, II and III centuries, Pagus rises in Encourgoules, on the site of  the old oppidum ligure. The remainders of columns, grounds and tombs attest Roman occupation of the place.

After the decline of  Roman empire, until average age, the area will know one very dark period during which one the plunderings and massacres perpetuated by Sarrazins will have not rest. 

Vallauris and Cannes will be devastated in 987, which will lead Guillaume Ist to engage a wild fight, and to push back the enemy, in this end of Xth century. 

In the year Thousand, Vallauris depends on the seignory of Antibes ; then begin a peaceful period, involving a movement of restoration. In 1038, following a donation to the Lerins' monastery , a delimitation between Antibes and Vallauris are fixed and will not change any more. 

Towards 1200, the Prior of Lerins orders construction of a priory and a castle, on the site of the current castle, and a vault contiguous to the priory; it is the vault where is today the Picasso museum. 

From XIVth century, famine, epidemics and plunderers will decimate Vallauris, so that at the XVth century, the city becomes an uninhabited place. 

Thanks to the efforts of the lerins' abbots, inhabitants of Ligurie will settle and repopulate Vallauris starting from the beginning of XVIth century. Mills, furnaces, ramparts, as well as house-ramparts, and even a hospital are built. 

Having taken extension and able to ensure its own defense at the begining of Rebirth, Vallauris is both ready to take part to the economic raising and to contribute to repopulate the coastal tape which will be, four hundred years later, the Riviera. 

The reasons of this rise are primarily due to the economic possibilities offered to the inhabitants. Red clays are used by  potters whose furnaces are supplied by trees of the forests of the community. The richness of the grounds will allow new cultures and  orange tree, in particular, appears at that time. The sharing of the grounds makes it possible to provide for the food needs for each one. The breeding provides milk and meat. As for the edge of sea, Gourjan (Gulf-Juan), finds its vocation, and develops a small fishing industry. 

Fishes are abundant :sardines, sea-breams, wolves, murenes, and sometimes  tunas. 

The "bouillabaisse" constitutes the basic dish of fishermen of all the Provence coast. 

Nutritive and refined, "Bouillabaisse" is ourdays very prized.

Cagnes/mer

Alas, in spite of this revival, the area will know during this century, the disastrous consequences of Italy wars, and terrible fights between François Ist and Charles Quint's armies.

 Wars bring miseries. 

During second half of this XVIth century, found peace will be swept by religion wars.

 After this century of fatal madness, opens one era of labour and lull. 

The economic revival is difficult, the undergone losses are heavy, the waste lands and the country is bloodless. Moreover, the coasts are under the perpetual threat of hackers, although the tower of Gabelle is there to ensure defense. This constant insecurity undoubtedly explains the fact that Gulf-Juan is almost an uninhabited place.

The pottery is the principal industry of Vallauris ; the famous pinhatas, or " pignates ", have a great success. One finds still today, wells dug by the winning of the red clay, raw material of the pignates. 

The mastery of the French language to detriment of " lou provençou " gives access to the best functions in administration and management of the city. What is obviously reserved to the elite, from where a certain social inequality. Thus, little by little, one chokes an evolved culture, rich in traditions, manners and songs. 

As for the food of the time, a black but consistent bread, sprinkled of olive oil, and some fruits and vegetables make the ordinary one. In order to improve the " nasty wine " resulting from the vine, one adds bitter orange to it, which constitutes today, the " orange wine ", an extremely pleasant aperitif, appreciated by experts. 

Century of lull for the area, but not for France which, controlled in turn by Louis XIII, Richelieu, then Louis XIV, will be constantly in war against its neighbours. 

Under the threat of the Duke of Savoy, and conscious of the " sensitivity " of this Area including the border with Nice, Louis XIV charges Vauban to inspect Provence. This one writes a report on Fourmigue, which is yet only one rock deprived of any construction. Indeed the Gulf-Juan harbour will hold all his attention during several years, because it offers an ideal and natural shelter for the Royal Fleet. Vauban will conceive the fortifications of the Antibes " square fort ", those of the Sainte Marguerite's island Royal Fort, the Antibes ramparts and bastions, as well as Fourcade and Gabelle of Gulf-Juan.

 St Marguerite's island : Royal Fort

(Iron Mask's jail)

The Iron Mask :

  Through triple metal bars, in its dungeon closed by a double iron barred gate, the man with the Mask could, during several years, from 1687 to 1694, or maybe 1698, to contemplate the Gulf-Juan's harbour and the part of its shore extending from the "Croisette" point to the Gabelle battery : a marvellous landscape made of deep  wood and intense sea, sand, sun and shade. 

Which were his thoughts?

We will never know them

. Who was he ? 

Strong probabilities leave think that he was the twin of Louis XIV. Having endangered the Capetian monarchy, he was locked up successively in Pignerol and Sainte Marguerite jails. 

 To have profited one century of respite, Vallauris knows, at the dawn of XVIIIth, a certain " prosperity ", altogether relative, because misery and insalubrity persist; roads have not  been maintained, which blocks the development. 

That shows the regression which occurred between the Roman Empire where roads and channels allowed transports, voyages and irrigation, and the following centuries  where during a long time, civilization paid the consequences of the cruel invasions. 

The population is then made up ceramists, farmers, and craftsmen. The life is hard and moments of relaxation are rare. However, drums and fifres do not miss any religious or different festival, and everyone already attends the severe  and keen parts of "bowls game " (composed of large wooden studded balls), worthy of the " South ", so that sometimes, the priest has to prohibit games during offices of Sunday. 

The nautical pleasures have been still ignored, but each one appreciates benefits of a pleasant nature, the wood of pines going down then to the sea.

Ceramics will know a true expansion. The production, while continuing to be utility, pignates, earthenware jars and poellons, diversifies towards objects of decoration such as vases, crucifix, fountains which also manufactures Moustiers. An emulation exists then in Provence where ceramics experiences a development without precedent. Nonperishable food product, ceramics do not suffer from the difficulty and slowness of transports. Exported on boat, flat-bottomed Tartanes board, the insolation of the country is not a problem. 

In 1789, the only revolution which knows Vallauris, is the appropriation by the commun  of the clergy's goods, namely, the castle and the vast grounds while depending, churches and vaults.

 February 4, 1793, the County of Nice is definitively attached to France. 

The execution of Louis XVI, January 21, involves in Mars 93, to a terrible European coalition against France. English armies invest Toulon, and the coalition presents a new threat of invasion for the area. 

However, the obstinacy of a small artillery captain called Bonaparte, will allow, December 19 of the same year, the reconquest of Toulon. 

Promoted, Bonaparte is charged to put the Coast of Provence in a state of defense.  

 During the year 1794, the Gulf's harbour will protect the 7 vessels and 4 frigates controlled by Sir Martin, from the English and Spanish fleets, 30 vessels, and 4 frigates.

In spite of their numerical naval superiority, the Anglo-Spaniards will not dare to face the small French fleet lied in ambush in the Gulf-Juan. Already this last one has an established reputation, both defended by the Royal Fort of St Marguerite, the Battery of Fourcade and... the tower of Gabelle. 

Anchored to broad, finally the enemy will be dispersed by a strong gale, which will put fine at the blockade. The exceptional harbourg of the Gulf thus have two functions : To dissuade the invader, and To protect the ships from the squalls.

 May 18, 1804, Bonaparte is crowned Empereur. 

During this beginning of 19th century, the Napoleons wars, the insecurity of the Coasts and roads, like their bad conditions, contribute to difficult exports of the ceramics. 

The conscription removes more and more young men from the ground and the workshops. The deserted fields increase unceasingly. The life is difficult, and the economy disorganized.

 April 10, 1814, Napoleon abdicates, and then embarks from St Raphaël to the Elba island.

Louis XVIII governs France. 

When the town council meets on May 02, 1814, no change intervened. It should be noted that the mayor and his assistants, are for the majority,  the descendants of the 70 families, came from Gênes at the beginning of XVIth century in order to repopulate the area devastated by plague and armed robbery. They are all the heirs to these immigrants who rebuilt the village, started again the work of the pottery and planted the first orange trees.

After a Provencal summer, i.e. hot and dry, and a Mediterranean winter covering with gold  hills of mimosas, Mars will burst in thunder clap on Europe, and will insert Gulf-Juan in the History.

The 1st March 1815, Napoleon unloads into the harbour, accompanied by a "  mini-armada  " made up of 7 ships, and a thousand of men, 4 guns and 4 horses.

The choice of this harbour, however well defended is not innocent. It is extremely probable that the deposed Emperor profited from military supports, in spite of an Antibian population with royalist tendency. This complicity will make possible the access to Gulf-Juan, small hamlet including at this time some warehouses of potteries and ten dwellings for forty inhabitants.

 Although shared, the Antibes garrison will not join the Emperor. Then start a crazy race ; Napoleon seeks surprise effect, he must imperatively reach Paris, before the news of his unloading. So, Napoleon commands to his troop, towards 23P.M, to walk on Paris : " the victory will go to the step of load ". Then, he borrows the " Royal lane ", current RN7, and moves to Cannes. 

The Eagle, and the national colors, will fly consequently from bell-towers to bell-towers up to the towers of "Our-Lady". Hundred Days during, this flight will make tremble the most powerful monarchs of Europe... Since, each year in March is celebrated the unloading of Napoleon. This historical reconstitution represents a remarkable show, which attracts an increasing crowd.

  With the neighbourhoods of 1830, perfumery develops in Vallauris. They were then very small distillatory equipped with very rudimentary stills. One distilled the flower of orange tree to obtain on the one hand the gasoline of neroli, very much used in the manufacture of "eau de Cologne", on the other hand the water of orange blossom which one made a very great consumption. This last one was even dispatched very far by boats by means of earthenware jars in pottery.

 In 1865, is inaugurated in Gulf-Juan, the Gazignaire perfumery, which always manufactures food flavourings, and exports them.

In 1831, Vallauris counts 2000 inhabitants, and about thirty for Gulf-Juan, in spite of world notoriety due to this famous unloading of 1815. It should be specified that at the time, the Gulf-Juan grounds are not worth large thing, and are left to girls like heritage, whereas the rich Vallaurian grounds are reserved to boys, more " ready " to exploit them... It was in XIX century !... 

However this mythical place will attract two large writers : Chateaubriand (1838) and Victor Hugo (1839), as well as a famous writer, Juliette Adam (1858) who, while settling there, will be at the origin of the rise of Gulf-Juan.  

In effect, she will invite there many personalities such as George Sand, Prosper Mérimée, Pierre Loti, or Gambetta, Thiers... in order to make them discover the benefits, the softness and the intensity of the southern life. 

Elsewhere, in 1860, she discovers the talents of a young ceramist; the manufacture of kitchen utensils out of ground will not be soon any more the only occupation of our potters. Vases and objects out of ceramics helping, here is the first vogue of Vallauris all in smoothness, guided by the engineering of Clement Massier.

Always in 1860, the annexation of Nice in France will break the insolation in which was Vallauris. Moreover, the arrival of the railroad, in 1862, makes Paris accessible, 22 hours of train ! What constitutes an event for the time . Exports thus facilitated, the trade of ceramics will know an unhoped evolution, and winter tourism will be developed. 

Small workshops have been transformed into true factories, and companies appear, gathering under a collective name several manufacturers in order to fight against competition. These companies will mark the beginning of the small industry.

Since the Restoration, Vallauris, like before the first Empire, formed part of the VAr department border. The return of Nice in the national bosom allows the reconstitution of the "Alpes-Maritimes" department  , which soon will become the Riviera.

 In 1892, the population of Vallauris rises with 7000 hearts. To this rise will succeed a stop of the demographic growth, since in 1921, Vallauris counts 5400 inhabitants. The causes of this regression are primarily economic, the pottery of the country then crossing a difficult period due to the competition and the 1914 war. The between-two-wars will see a resumption of ceramics, whereas tourism, being popularized, makes known the softness of the azurean life. 

Thus, Gulf-Juan which counted ten families in 1842, then 180 inhabitants in 1860, sees its population exceeding the 2000 hearts in 1930. Today, it amounts to approximately 10 000 inhabitants, and 18 000 for Vallauris.

 The economic crisis of 1930, and the arrival of more adapted materials, aluminium, cast iron, stainless, draw aside the pottery of its culinary function to start towards the end of the Forties a very different evolution : artistic ceramics.  

 Vallauris is a place of meeting in which rub shoulders with artists and craftsmen. One finds there pottery of art, parts single, great names such as Copron, Collet, Derval, Valentine, Boncompain, Koenig, Marais..., as well as culinary pottery, and many decorative objects... 

Today, the international biennal of Ceramics of Art testifies to the strength of this craft.   

 THE CERAMIQUE : 

Ceramics is obtained starting from a natural and common matter, clay. This one, subjected to a very high temperature changes after having lost all its water. The result obtained is a very hard body which can be covered with a layer of enamel or varnish ; ceramics becomes even more resistant then.

The "engobe" technic :

Initially the part is covered with a ground liquid. Decorated with mixtures based on oxide, the first cooking is carried out. Then, the part is covered with an enamel, or a varnish, before being reheated once again at very high temperature.

 Vallauris celebrates its potters each second Sunday of August. Residents, visitors, holiday makers set out again with " a little heart of the country ", and a small pottery turned under their eyes is offered like souvenir and as a token of friendship.